Arrive Tuesday 12:30. This will be a gimble walk.
From the station take the curving Albatross Way which seems to be a path. Eventually, turn left into Swan Road.
Swan Road
Swan Road was originally known as Swan Lane and is one of the oldest roads in the area, likely dating back to the seventeenth century.
The Swan Road Estate, constructed between 1902 and 1903, was a housing development initiated by the London County Council. It aimed to provide new homes for individuals who were displaced due to the construction of the Rotherhithe Tunnel. In 1996, the estate underwent refurbishment by Robinson, Kenning Gallagher, under the supervision of the London Docklands Development Corporation. Today, alongside the refurbished properties, there are also newly built flats within the estate.
A notable feature in the area is a mural installed in 1992 by David John. Executed in Vitreous Glass Mosaic, the mural depicts swans against the backdrop of the Rotherhithe riverfront.
Ignore Albion Street and take the second left after that.
Kenning Street
The Swan Road Mosaic is actually best seen from Kenning Street. The mosaic is 3.35 metres by 9.60 metres and is made from vitreous glass by the artist David John in 1992.
Kenning’s Buildings is noted for the first time in a journal dated 8 January 1804. There was also a stone yard dating from 1868. The address was renamed Kenning Street in 1880.
Adjacent is the Swan Road Estate, a housing development that was constructed by the London County Council between 1902 and 1903. The primary purpose of this estate was to provide new housing for individuals who were required to relocate due to the construction of the Rotherhithe Tunnel.
Railway Avenue
Turn right into Railway Avenue. Here is the The Brunel Museum – a museum at the Brunel Engine House in Rotherhithe.
The Engine House itself was designed by Sir Marc Isambard Brunel as part of the infrastructure of the Thames Tunnel. It contained steam-powered pumps used to extract water from the tunnel.
The Thames Tunnel was completed in 1843, it was a convenient pedestrian thoroughfare for working people, but also gained a murky reputation for criminality and vice.
In 1865, the East London Railway Company bought the tunnel to link passengers and goods between Liverpool Street and the South London Line.
Today, those taking the overground train from Wapping to Rotherhithe are actually passing through the tunnel.
Since 1961 the building has been used as a museum displaying information on the construction of the tunnel as well as other projects by Marc and Isambard Kingdom Brunel.
Rotherhithe Street
Rotherhithe Street begins as a narrow pedestrian backstreet on the Thames’ southern bank, just north of the Rotherhithe tunnel. It is the longest street in London. Turn left into it.
Tunnel Road marks where the Rotherhithe Tunnel runs underneath.
Next up is the Mayflower pub, situated at the very spot where its namesake ship embarked on its historic voyage 400 years ago. Established in 1550, it proudly proclaims itself as the oldest pub constructed along the banks of the River Thames.
Legend has it that this venerable establishment was constructed atop the decaying remains of the Mayflower, left to perish in the muddy banks. Stepping inside, visitors are greeted by the presence of dark timber beams and low ceilings, evoking a nostalgic ambiance of days long gone.
In 1780, the pub underwent reconstruction, taking on the new name of the Spread Eagle and Crown, before finally being christened The Mayflower in 1957.
An intriguing tradition awaits patrons who can trace their lineage directly back to the Pilgrim fathers. Such esteemed individuals are warmly invited to inscribe their names in the esteemed ‘Descendants Book.’ Furthermore, the Mayflower’s deep ties to the United States are so pronounced that it holds the distinction of being the sole pub in the UK authorized to sell American postage stamps.
St. Mary’s is an 18th-century church with a unique feature. While the four pillars supporting the roof appear to be made of stone, they are actually crafted from the wooden masts of old ships, cleverly disguised with a layer of plaster.
Notably, St Mary’s serves as the final resting place of Christopher Jones, the esteemed captain of the Mayflower Ship. It was under his command that the Pilgrim Fathers embarked on their momentous journey from Rotherhithe to the New World in the autumn of 1620.
Adjacent to the church stands the historic ‘Charity School.’ Founded in 1612 by Master Mariner Peter Hills and the seafarer Robert Bell, its initial purpose was to provide education to the eight sons of sailors from the parish. Thanks to generous donations, the school underwent expansion, and by 1836, it accommodated 150 boys. As part of the school’s charitable status, all students received clothing and were taught about the Christian faith.
The old building was Grade-II listed in 1949 and has since been converted into offices but it still bears the same distinctive doorbell from its school days, as well as a carved plaque reminding passers-by of its origins.
Two stone statues of Charity School children wearing their bluecoats still guard the entrance to the building. And of course further along the Rotherhithe Peninsular is a modern day primary school called Peter Hills.
King’s Stairs Gardens
King’s Stairs Gardens is a riverside park. In July 1947 the London County Council (LCC) declared Bermondsey a Reconstruction Area, and as part of wholesale post-war regeneration approved the idea of extending Southwark Park to the river. The idea of a link to the river pre-dated the Second World War by a few years, but the post-war need to reconstruct gave this aim more resonance.
In 1960 the LCC approved a design for the King’s Stairs riverside walk, which was opened in November 1962. In January 1963 the LCC approved the name King’s Stairs Gardens.
In 1964 the LCC agreed a grassed area to the south of The Angel public house. Again the implementation seems to have been delayed due to financial constraints, and it was not until 1968 that the Greater London Council (the successor body to the LCC) reappraised the site, and agreed to three green space additions. These were finally completed by 1982, and it is in that form that King’s Stairs Gardens still exists today.
Fulford Street
Fulford Street has a somewhat unexpected view of Tower Bridge.
The history of The Angel in Rotherhithe dates back several centuries. In the 15th century, an inn known as The Salutation was operated by monks from Bermondsey Priory in the vicinity of the current site. The inn served as a rest house for travelers.
By 1682, The Angel had relocated to a position diagonally opposite its present location. During this time, it gained fame and was referred to as “the famous Angel” by Samuel Pepys, the renowned diarist of that era. The former Redriffe stairs, which provided access to the river, were situated west of The Angel.
As the 19th century approached, The Angel marked the beginning of a continuous stretch of buildings along the riverfront, extending eastward. However, there were occasional breaks in the building frontage, which allowed for access to the river via stairs.
The remains of the so-called King Edward III manor house are nearby.
Bermondsey Wall East
Along Bermondsey Wall East, the set of four statues depicts Dr Alfred and Ada Salter, their daughter Joyce and their cat. Collectively they are known intriguingly as ‘Dr Salter’s Daydream’. The Salter family moved into the heart of Bermondsey, Jamaica Road and set up a surgery for the local poor. Alfred incurred the wrath of his medical peers for charging as little as sixpence for a consultation and giving them free to those who couldn’t afford it.
In 1902 the couple had a daughter, Joyce, and the new parents made the decision to educate her locally, showing yet more commitment to Bermondsey. Aged only eight, Joyce tragically contracted Scarlet Fever, common in poverty stricken areas, and died soon after.
The set of sculptures, by Diane Gorvin and originally not including the statue of Ada, was unveiled at Cherry Garden Pier in 1991 and moved to its current location on Bermondsey Wall East in 2003.
Cherry Garden Pier
Walk as far as Cherry Garden Pier. The Cherry Garden opened in 1664 on the river bank. As well as a beer or coffee house, there was a cherry orchard. Samuel Pepys mentioned it in his diary for 13 June 1664 with the words “… down to Greenwich and there saw the King’s Works … and so to the Cherry Garden and so carried some cherries home;”.
The Cherry Garden was closed in 1708. It was situated on land now covered by the street bearing its name. That street runs south from the street called Bermondsey Wall. Cherry Garden Stairs are shown on early maps. Cherry Garden Pier was probably not built until about 1850. Cherry Garden Pier is now a private pier with no public access.
The Cherry Garden ceased its operations in 1708. The land it occupied is now occupied by the street that carries its name. This street stretches southward from Bermondsey Wall. Early maps also depict the presence of Cherry Garden Stairs, serving as a point of access to the area. While Cherry Garden Pier likely came into existence around 1850, it has since transitioned into a private pier, inaccessible to the general public.
Cherry Garden Street
Walk down Cherry Garden Street to Jamaica Road. Turn right and walk to Bermondsey station.
Next up (13:30 Tuesday): Bermondsey to London Bridge